Bocas del Toro

On our boat trip over to the islands that make up the community of Bocas del Toro (mouths of the bull) we loaded all our gear, people AND a kitchen sink into the wooden "launcha". Wood plank seats and backs across the boat served to seat 4 per row. Our boat was somewhat unusual as there were lifejackets at hand, but buckled on to the seats in front of us. No one wore them, but no problem - we just would quickly unbuckle them and untangle them from the seat in front of us, put them on over our heads, adjust the straps and clip the buckles while the boat foundered or capsized. Fortunately we did have need to try this.

Bocas del Toro is both a province of Panama and a town on Isla Colon (named after that famous explorer who first visited these shores around 1500; in Catalan: Cristòfor Colom; Spanish: Cristóbal Colón; Portuguese: Cristóvão Colombo; Latin: Christophorus Columbus. Morphed for pleasing N. American consumption to Christopher Columbus). The town developed based on fishing industry, and is now a slow-moving Caribbean commercial hub, with the many cultural layers of Spanish, indigenous tribes, black slaves, European entrepeneurs and lately Jamaican-style Rastafarians and mostly 20-something backpacking tourists. Locals ride leisurely up and down the main street on fat-tired bicycles with big saddle seats and high wide handle bars that look like horns on a Texas longhorn cow. The local pidgin dialect is a patois of spanish, english, slang, with a spice of voodoo.

Bocas was not for us - hot, muggy, trashy. There was burning garbage in the street outside our apartment next to the airport. Several times a day, turbo-prop passenger planes would land, disgorge passengers, refuel, take on new passengers - all while idling with droning engines about 200 yards from our front window. This had a damping effect which brought all conversation, reading, and sleeping to a halt. Much of the attitude and somewhat remoteness of the people were the same as in Cahuita, but with a different flavour.

Redeeming features in this group of islands were stunning beaches, good birds, fish and mangroves. Plunked in the middle of one island is one of the BEST Thai restaurants we have been to. 13 of us went over at night in a 25 foot open launch (standard issue - no lights, no lifejackets), hiked up the hill into the darkness of a jungle trail (our group lit with one flashlight, one penlight and several cell phone lights) - to emerge after about 1.5 kilometers at the restaurant - a private house of a Thai woman and son, who host, take orders, cook and clean up. Tables in open air teak verandas looking out through the inky palm fringe to the distant lights. Choruses of deep-throated frogs serenaded us as we dined in the soft night air.

This was a highpoint - but we were glad to move on to week three of language school in the central highlands of Boquete, Panama.





Boat trip to Bocas (including kitchen sink)










Red mangroves on the approach to Bocas. These marvelous plants are among the best natural shoreline protection from tidal waves and hurricanes.

Bocas del Toro from the water

A government building in Bocas as we walked down the main street to our school

We had a salsa dancing lesson at one bar on a small island. But dancing quickly gave way refreshments at the bar. I believe Janet is here explaining to our dancing instructor (in Spanish) the cultural importance of rum for Newfoundlanders.